A Purim feast for all
Gathering for a festive meal with family and friends is an essential part of every Shabbat and nearly every Jewish holiday. A festive meal suggests the inclusion of delicious food and quality wine. However, a Shabbat or yom tov meal is, first and foremost — a meal. Aside from fast days, we all eat three meals a day, and we make them festive in honor of the sanctity of the day.
The Purim seudah is extra special; in fact, it is arguably the main event of the holiday. Yes, we have the megillah reading to start the holiday, and then again the next morning. But then we may we rush through the goodies in the mishloach manot and — after feeling accomplished for fulfilling the mitzvot of the day, we at last sit down to the seudah.
What’s even more special about the Purim feast is that there is such an emphasis on wine, despite the fact that we don’t even make Kiddush. Since drinking wine is so emphasized on Purim, there can be pressure on both the hosts and the guests. Hosts want their guests to feel comfortable, and guests don’t want to feel forced to drink wine they don’t enjoy just because it’s Purim. Therefore, the challenge for both is finding wines that will appeal to everyone’s taste. With that in mind, here is a short review of my Purim selections:
Bartenura lychee-flavored Moscato Cans, NV: You’re not daydreaming. Yes, I’m actually recommending a Moscato! When I lived in Israel, I would purchase a bottle of Moscato every week for Shabbat and yom tov, in addition to two-three fine dry red and white wines, as an inexpensive, crowd-pleasing dessert wine. Among my go-tos were Teperberg’s and Zion Moscatos. I find Bartenura’s lychee-flavored Moscato Cans to be a fun, tasty, refreshing, and flavorful wine that can be enjoyed at any point during the seudah. It’s also a great item to include in your mishloach manot. (PSA: It is NOT kosher for Pesach!)
Jeunesse Pinot Noir, 2023: Some of you may be thinking, “Has Geller lost it?!” I won’t pretend that Jeunesse wines are my preferred style. However, if asked, I would likely choose pinot noir as my favorite grape variety — though I tend to think less about specific varieties and more about how and where a wine is made as well as its overall quality. It is an impressive and bold move on the part of winemaker Alicia Wilbur and the team at Herzog to add a pinot noir to the Jeunesse lineup, and it’s a great way to introduce wine newcomers to this amazing grape.
Champagne Drappier, Carte d’Or, Brut NV: I’ve reviewed the Carte d’Or in these pages before, probably more than once, but I purposely chose the magnum this time. Magnums are a true centerpiece on any table, especially when it’s a great wine like this one. Perfect for parties and meals with many guests, it’s also a fantastic way to add some hiddur mitzvah to your seudah. Magnums also last about 10-15 percent longer than regular 750-ml bottles because the air-to-wine ratio is lower, which, for my own taste, is crucial with Champagne. Enjoy the zing of the bubbles and the notes of fresh lemon, green apple, brioche, and hazelnuts with your guests. Like most dry sparkling wines, this one pairs well with almost any type of food you serve at the seudah.
Celler de Capçanes, La Flor del Flor del Primavera, Samso, DO Montsant, 2021: A favorite from Capçanes made from carignan (“samso” in Catalan) grown on nearly century-old vines in the mountainous vineyards surrounding the winery (I have great memories of riding up to the vineyards in the Jeep of Capçanes’s Jürgen Wagner on a beautiful fall morning with my wife, Yael, and our then-16-month-old son). This wine is now mevushal, allowing it to be shared in any setting, regardless of location or the religious affiliation of your guests.
Carmel Signature Mediterranean, 4 Vats, 2021: While not as complex and tightly structured as its pricier “Carmel Mediterranean” sibling, the 4 Vats is one of the most unique proprietary blends I enjoy presenting to people who are new to Israeli wines and looking for something different and original from the Holy Land. I like the symbolic aspect of enjoying a truly Israeli wine on the festive holiday of Purim — it is sure to intrigue your guests as well.
— Royal Wine Corp.
Gabriel Geller, WSET III, is director of public relations and advertising and manager of wine education for Royal Wine Corp. For information, go to royalwine.com.
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